The One-Eyed Fox of Waskesiu

Before the first snowfall, I spent a day solo hiking in Prince Albert National Park. I wasn’t alone though. I made friends with the one-eyed fox of Waskesui.

One-eyed fox at Narrows Marina, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Fox at Narrows Marina, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Fox at Narrows Marina, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Fox at Narrows Marina, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Autumn scenes at Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Long Drive Down a Long Road

In sharp contrast to the bustling streets of Tokyo, I can drive for miles and miles without seeing another being in my home province of Saskatchewan. But when I do, it’s guaranteed that I will be on the receiving end of a friendly wave of acknowledgement as we pass. Weekends like this—of getting lost under the living sky—are my favourite moments of living on the prairies.

The desolate Highway 36, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Abandoned homes house ghosts of the past in rural Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Town of Coronach, Saskatchewan signage (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Mural on Main Street, Coronach, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Canola fields, rural Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Our Lady of Lourdes Cemetery 1912-1953, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Grasslands

It was getting late. I placed the book I was reading on the nightstand and looked over at my partner who was fast asleep after a long day. I wasn’t ready for slumber just yet though … the night was calling.

And I was staying in a place famous for it.


Grasslands National Park in southwest Saskatchewan is the darkest dark sky preserve in Canada. After hours, as the gradient sunset fades to black, the sky becomes a glittering tapestry of stars and visible planets, the scale of which merits nothing short of awe. It is perhaps the best place in the country to humble one’s self and get a sense of the grand scope of our shared universe.

As part of a late summer road trip, we made our way to the village of Val Marie (population 126)—the gateway to Grasslands—and stayed overnight in a converted church named The Sanctuary Inn. As soon as I stepped inside, I was taken aback by how quiet everything was. There was no ambient noise from vehicular traffic. No TV for distraction. Just the sound of our own conversation and birds chirping outside. After a summer shaped by loss and hardship, it was the peace we needed.

Our first full day at Grasslands, we did the self-paced ecotour scenic drive and back country loop. At 140 kilometres long, I didn’t expect it to take as long as it did but in total our prairie safari lasted over seven hours. The adventure was exclusively on gravel roads (some more maintained than others). Beyond epic prairie landscapes, we also observed coyote, vast colonies of prairie dog, and several herds of bison roaming free … and even spotted a lone bison, whom the visitor centre staff informed me was “kicked out of the herd” during this rutting season for not being strong enough. I was assured, however, that his time-out would be over in a few weeks when he could return.

On the back country roads were a few isolated homes and ranches and I wondered what the occupant’s lives must be like with no immediate neighbours and any type of services literally hours away. A life in isolation can occasionally be appealing to me, especially after this pandemic, but the reality of it would be far different than my idealization. We do need others. Even if reluctantly.


I tiptoed to the entrance in an attempt to not wake him. After turning off the inside and outside light, I opened the door and was met with complete, enveloping darkness. It was the blackest night I have ever experienced. It was another world.

Borderlands Lookout, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The Sanctuary Inn, Val Marie, Saskatchewan (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Val Marie, Saskatchewan (©2022, Deborah Clague)

Grasslands National Park, Saskatchewan (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The dark brown spot, just left of center, is a lone bison (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Like the surface of the moon, the prairie dog village at Grasslands National Park resembles a lunar landscape (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Remnants of a homestead, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

A herd of wild bison, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

A herd of wild bison, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Roadblock ahead, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Back Country Loop, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Borderlands Lookout, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Borderlands Lookout, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Rosefield Grid Road, Grasslands National Park (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Abandoned church off Highway 4, Saskatchewan (©2022, Deborah Clague).

On the Grid II

I used to spend a lot of time dreaming about where I wanted to be. It was always somewhere other than where I was.

Growing up on the prairies of Western Canada, it was easy to feel this way. The zeitgeist of our national identity seemed to originate from Toronto and Montreal, places where media focused their energy to showcase anything of note happening. In comparison, the prairies were sleepy. Taciturn. A landscape dotted with townships frozen in time—culturally, technologically, literally. I know that’s not true but my own misguided notions of success influenced my longing until recently.

The pandemic, and all the newly discovered free time I have as a result of it, has really underlined how much I enjoy living here. How the panoramic landscape and vibrant living skies speak to my soul. How enriching and supportive the personal and professional connections I’ve made here are. How the most helpful, kind, salt-of-the-earth people reside here. Being stationary is not falling behind; it’s holding presence. The Canadian prairies are where I want to leave my mark.

I had a week off and decided to use this time, once again, to explore the tapestry of grid roads within central Saskatchewan. I discovered some hidden gems, met a lot of cows and indulged in some delicious homemade butter tarts.

Clarkboro Ferry Crossing, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Clarkboro Ferry Crossing, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Curiosity on a lonely grid road, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague)

Curiosity on a lonely grid road, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague)

Former Ukrainian Catholic Ascension Church, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Former Ukrainian Catholic Ascension Church, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Relaxing on a lonely grid road, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Relaxing on a lonely grid road, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Grain tower at Blaine Lake, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Grain tower at Blaine Lake, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Commercial Hotel, Blaine Lake, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Commercial Hotel, Blaine Lake, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Decisions, decisions, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Decisions, decisions, Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

The largest tree in Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

The largest tree in Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

In the shadow of a giant, the largest tree in Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

In the shadow of a giant, the largest tree in Saskatchewan (©2021 Deborah Clague).

Out of the House, Into the Woods

Feeling a bit more protected after our first dose of Pfizer, we spent a long weekend at Prince Albert National Park exploring the trails, forest bathing, bird (and bear!) watching, and relaxing in a beautiful cabin at Elk Ridge Resort. More far-flung travel may still be on-hold but I am really looking forward to exploring the land of living skies, Saskatchewan, over the summer.

Hiking in Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Hiking in Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The scenery of Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The scenery of Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Bear In Area at Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Bear In Area at Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Is it? (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Is it? (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Yup, that’s a bear. Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Yup, that’s a bear. Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Waskesiu River trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Waskesiu River trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The peeling bark of a birch tree, Prince Albert National Park (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The peeling bark of a birch tree, Prince Albert National Park (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Out of the house and into the woods of Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Out of the house and into the woods of Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The perfect solitude of Boundary Bog trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The perfect solitude of Boundary Bog trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Feasting on BBQ after a day’s hike at Elkridge Resort, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Feasting on BBQ after a day’s hike at Elkridge Resort, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

On the Grid

Some scenes from a lazy afternoon spent exploring the grid roads of Saskatchewan:

Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of migratory snow geese take flight from a pond located adjacent to a grid road in rural Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of migratory snow geese take flight from a pond located adjacent to a grid road in rural Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Snow geese take off in flight after our car disturbed their peace (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Snow geese take off in flight after our car disturbed their peace (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Snow geese in flight (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Snow geese in flight (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Crooked Trees (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Crooked Trees (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Welcome to the Crooked Bush from Friends of the Crooked Bush (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Welcome to the Crooked Bush from Friends of the Crooked Bush (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Like a scene from a fairy tale, the Crooked Trees of Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Like a scene from a fairy tale, the Crooked Trees of Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Deborah was here – The Crooked Trees, Saskatchewan (©2021, Deborah Clague).

Deborah was here – The Crooked Trees, Saskatchewan (©2021, Deborah Clague).

In the bush – an abandoned house consumed by trees, rural Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

In the bush – an abandoned house consumed by trees, rural Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Hitchin’ a ride (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Hitchin’ a ride (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Main Street, Hafford, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Main Street, Hafford, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

7 Star Restaurant, Hafford, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

7 Star Restaurant, Hafford, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Where the buffalo roam (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Where the buffalo roam (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Winter City

I’m a four-season girl. I’ve grown up in a climate that had four distinct seasons and I definitely appreciate each of them, including winter. A recent polar vortex caused temperatures where I live to dip below -42 degrees Celsius (-55 degrees Celsius with the windchill!), so when it warmed up to a relatively “balmy” -14 (-24), we decided to take the opportunity to get some fresh air, go for a hike and explore life beyond the walls we’ve been surrounded by as a result of the pandemic.

Wanuskewin has been a gathering place for nomadic tribes for over six thousand years. Today, it is a designated heritage park showcasing Indigenous art and culture, as well as an active archaeological site providing context and connection to our history from present day Treaty 6 territory in Saskatchewan, Canada. It also offers a museum, restaurant featuring Indigenous cuisine, and numerous hiking trails to explore the Northern Plains.