A Fabled Tea House in the Sky

I was 13.

It was July and my family was on our annual summer vacation that year in Banff National Park, Alberta. We strolled the shore of world-renowned Lake Louise; no matter how many times I’d seen it—and at that age, I’d already seen it a lot, as the Rockies were my father’s favourite travel destination—I always marvelled at how pristine the snow-capped peaks and aqua-green water were. In colour and scale, it was such a contrast from my home on the prairies. After some admiration, my father wanted to take my childhood dog, a loyal border collie named Pepper, for a longer walk while my mother and I window-shopped the boutiques in the hotel. We verbally agreed to meet in an hour or so.

The “or so” turned out to be half a day later. My father and Pepper went on a very long walk to a mountain-top tea house.

I always remembered his stories of this hike. His wonder at the vistas and of hearing an avalanche rumble in the distance. Also, the exertion required by him (and my dog) to complete the loop. I was never much into hiking in my youth but as an adult, immersion in the forest is a favoured pastime. So this year, a special year, I was determined to retrace his steps and also climb to that fabled tea house in the sky.

The aqua water of Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada (©2022, Deborah Clague).

We took a right (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Mirror Lake, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The Beehive, near Lake Louise, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

In the pines, Lake Agnes hike near Lake Louise, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Lake Agnes Tea House (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The crystal clear water at Lake Agnes, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Bridal Veil Falls, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The Badlands

I must have been around three.

Or perhaps four.

At any rate, it was an age when memories start to stick and experiences shape the person you will eventually become. I was in my maternal grandparent’s basement. My mom was deep in conversation au Francais with my grandmother and I tried to distract myself by exploring the space as I waited for them to finish. There wasn’t much; an older, multi-unit dwelling, its basement was unfinished for the most part save a washer/dryer and a cracked concrete floor that I remember being cold on my feet. The lack of decor in the basement was actually in stark contrast to the rest of their technicolour home where I distinctly remember a forest green living room, Peptol-Bismol pink bathroom, and baby blue bedroom. Everything was completely colour-coordinated to precision with matching carpet, furniture and accessories.

But there was one thing I found in the basement that caught my attention: a miniature toy dinosaur.

I was riveted. At the time, no one had told me what a dinosaur was. I don’t even think I’d ever seen a picture of one. I took the small toy with me, constructing adventures in my head on the bus ride home about what it was and where it came from. I probably didn’t stop talking about it as my parent’s eventually got me more toys and some books about cretaceous creatures—I even remember my first one purchased at Woolco, which I’ve kept all these years. I’ve been fascinated ever since.

As he always did, my father cultivated my interests by introducing me to one of the best places to learn about dinosaurs in the world: Drumheller, Alberta, home of the badlands and world-renowned Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, which I visited this week … taking me back to those childhood days full of wonder and curiosity.

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Black Beauty, one of the most perfect skeletons of a tyrannosaurus-rex ever discovered, on display at Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Black Beauty, Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The evolution of the chasmosaurines, Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Diorama of a wooly mammoth being attacked by sabre-toothed tigers, Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Badlands near Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague)

Badlands (©2022, Deborah Clague)

Andrew Farms grain tower, a relic on the prairies (©2022, Deborah Clague)

THE Best Burger.

New Year's Eve. The clock hadn't even struck twelve and I already witnessed a brawl involving fisticuffs outside my hotel suite, some arsehole throwing firecrackers at an urbanized deer, and a grown man wearing nothing but a diaper and a top hat. Spending the week in Banff was a memorable end to a memorable year. The greatest part was that I got to erase another task off the ol' bucket list: I ate a Kobe beef burger. 

Well...it wasn't REAL Kobe beef, as that can truly only be obtained in Japan under strict farming conditions. However, Eddie Burger Bar offers an Alberta-raised, affordable (in comparison) alternative. And. It. Is. DELICIOUS. Seriously, I haven't stopped dreaming about this succulent culinary delight since I returned to Saskatoon. I've succumbed to the fact that eating anything less is just setting up my palette for disappointment, although I do plan on attempting to replicate the flavoring at home. Toasty bun, crisp red onions, aged cheddar, mystery sauce milked from the Gods...since this post is already devolving into food porn, let's take it all the way:

Muy Bueno! I've since decided that when I return to Japan I will indulge (and possibly go bankrupt) trying the original. 

There is a competitor in the Banff burger wars, similarly named and claiming to have been voted "the best" in town, but rest assured, I tried it as well and it didn't come close. Eddie all the way! Now excuse me while I go back to salivating over my keyboard.