A Fabled Tea House in the Sky

I was 13.

It was July and my family was on our annual summer vacation that year in Banff National Park, Alberta. We strolled the shore of world-renowned Lake Louise; no matter how many times I’d seen it—and at that age, I’d already seen it a lot, as the Rockies were my father’s favourite travel destination—I always marvelled at how pristine the snow-capped peaks and aqua-green water were. In colour and scale, it was such a contrast from my home on the prairies. After some admiration, my father wanted to take my childhood dog, a loyal border collie named Pepper, for a longer walk while my mother and I window-shopped the boutiques in the hotel. We verbally agreed to meet in an hour or so.

The “or so” turned out to be half a day later. My father and Pepper went on a very long walk to a mountain-top tea house.

I always remembered his stories of this hike. His wonder at the vistas and of hearing an avalanche rumble in the distance. Also, the exertion required by him (and my dog) to complete the loop. I was never much into hiking in my youth but as an adult, immersion in the forest is a favoured pastime. So this year, a special year, I was determined to retrace his steps and also climb to that fabled tea house in the sky.

The aqua water of Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada (©2022, Deborah Clague).

We took a right (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Mirror Lake, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The Beehive, near Lake Louise, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

In the pines, Lake Agnes hike near Lake Louise, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Lake Agnes Tea House (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The crystal clear water at Lake Agnes, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Bridal Veil Falls, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The Badlands

I must have been around three.

Or perhaps four.

At any rate, it was an age when memories start to stick and experiences shape the person you will eventually become. I was in my maternal grandparent’s basement. My mom was deep in conversation au Francais with my grandmother and I tried to distract myself by exploring the space as I waited for them to finish. There wasn’t much; an older, multi-unit dwelling, its basement was unfinished for the most part save a washer/dryer and a cracked concrete floor that I remember being cold on my feet. The lack of decor in the basement was actually in stark contrast to the rest of their technicolour home where I distinctly remember a forest green living room, Peptol-Bismol pink bathroom, and baby blue bedroom. Everything was completely colour-coordinated to precision with matching carpet, furniture and accessories.

But there was one thing I found in the basement that caught my attention: a miniature toy dinosaur.

I was riveted. At the time, no one had told me what a dinosaur was. I don’t even think I’d ever seen a picture of one. I took the small toy with me, constructing adventures in my head on the bus ride home about what it was and where it came from. I probably didn’t stop talking about it as my parent’s eventually got me more toys and some books about cretaceous creatures—I even remember my first one purchased at Woolco, which I’ve kept all these years. I’ve been fascinated ever since.

As he always did, my father cultivated my interests by introducing me to one of the best places to learn about dinosaurs in the world: Drumheller, Alberta, home of the badlands and world-renowned Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, which I visited this week … taking me back to those childhood days full of wonder and curiosity.

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Black Beauty, one of the most perfect skeletons of a tyrannosaurus-rex ever discovered, on display at Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Black Beauty, Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

The evolution of the chasmosaurines, Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Diorama of a wooly mammoth being attacked by sabre-toothed tigers, Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague).

Badlands near Drumheller, Alberta (©2022, Deborah Clague)

Badlands (©2022, Deborah Clague)

Andrew Farms grain tower, a relic on the prairies (©2022, Deborah Clague)

Out of the House, Into the Woods

Feeling a bit more protected after our first dose of Pfizer, we spent a long weekend at Prince Albert National Park exploring the trails, forest bathing, bird (and bear!) watching, and relaxing in a beautiful cabin at Elk Ridge Resort. More far-flung travel may still be on-hold but I am really looking forward to exploring the land of living skies, Saskatchewan, over the summer.

Hiking in Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Hiking in Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The scenery of Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The scenery of Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Bear In Area at Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Bear In Area at Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Is it? (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Is it? (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Yup, that’s a bear. Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Yup, that’s a bear. Mud Creek trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Boating on Waskesiu Lake, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Waskesiu River trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Waskesiu River trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The peeling bark of a birch tree, Prince Albert National Park (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The peeling bark of a birch tree, Prince Albert National Park (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Out of the house and into the woods of Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Out of the house and into the woods of Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The perfect solitude of Boundary Bog trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

The perfect solitude of Boundary Bog trail, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Feasting on BBQ after a day’s hike at Elkridge Resort, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Feasting on BBQ after a day’s hike at Elkridge Resort, Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

On the Grid

Some scenes from a lazy afternoon spent exploring the grid roads of Saskatchewan:

Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of migratory snow geese take flight from a pond located adjacent to a grid road in rural Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of migratory snow geese take flight from a pond located adjacent to a grid road in rural Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Snow geese take off in flight after our car disturbed their peace (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Snow geese take off in flight after our car disturbed their peace (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Snow geese in flight (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Snow geese in flight (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Crooked Trees (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Crooked Trees (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Welcome to the Crooked Bush from Friends of the Crooked Bush (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Welcome to the Crooked Bush from Friends of the Crooked Bush (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Like a scene from a fairy tale, the Crooked Trees of Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Like a scene from a fairy tale, the Crooked Trees of Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Deborah was here – The Crooked Trees, Saskatchewan (©2021, Deborah Clague).

Deborah was here – The Crooked Trees, Saskatchewan (©2021, Deborah Clague).

In the bush – an abandoned house consumed by trees, rural Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

In the bush – an abandoned house consumed by trees, rural Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Hitchin’ a ride (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Hitchin’ a ride (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Main Street, Hafford, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Main Street, Hafford, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

7 Star Restaurant, Hafford, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

7 Star Restaurant, Hafford, Saskatchewan (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Where the buffalo roam (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Where the buffalo roam (©Deborah Clague, 2021).

Places to Daydream About: Churchill, Canada

Even though Covid-19 has changed the world for the foreseeable future, it has not diminished my love of adventure or desire to learn about—and hopefully visit—every corner of this wonderful planet we inhabit. There’s something about the ritual of travel, even certain stresses of it, that soothes me. For my previous excursions, I would spend upwards of almost a year researching a destination and planning the perfect itinerary. In the meantime though, I’ve been focusing on places to daydream about. Places that have captured my imagination in one way or another that are, thanks to Google Streetview, easy to explore from the comfort of one’s couch.

At the top of my virtual bucket list is a place in my home province that I have sadly not had the opportunity to visit yet - Churchill, Manitoba. Located on Hudson Bay and founded on the traditional territories of the Dene and Cree people, Churchill’s settler history is rooted in the establishment of the fur trade. Tourism now helps fuel economic development as the township has branded itself the “polar bear capital of the world”. The vulnerable species treks through civic limits as part of their annual migration. Regular alerts are issued upon sightings; a holding facility contains wayward bears until they can be safely released back into the wild.

Churchill’s tundra landscape offers welcome (or perhaps warning) to the great arctic beyond:

Churchill, Manitoba (©Google)

Churchill, Manitoba (©Google)