January 18, 2026: Deposit paid. Midlife crisis trip booked. Months of research now an official countdown to Fall, the season in which the monsoons start to dissipate thus granting the best possibility of seeing the peak of Everest from its base camp in Tibet.
August 26, 2026: With just over a week until I depart on my Himalayan adventure, I wake up to the news that a glacier collapse has devastated the Tibet-Nepal border at Gyirong Port. Footage of the disaster is shocking and a stark reminder of how dangerous and unforgiving nature can be. I stay glued to this news for days, feeling sick to my stomach.
The region I am visiting is 350km away and I debate cancelling this portion of my trip but decide to wait until I receive official word from the tour company I booked with. No updates are provided.
September 9, 2026: Just before midnight local time, I land in Chengdu, China after a very long day of nineteen hours in air.
With its warm, welcoming people and laidback vibe, Chengdu is a highlight and probably my favourite city in China. Chengdu is also one of the world’s premier UNESCO Creative Cities of Gastronomy, showcasing the best of Sichuan cuisine at its over 60,000 restaurants and food stalls. After a long slumber in a comfortable bed, I took the opportunity to try some of the unique fare found here.
First up is a small, local shop called Yan Taipo Guokui that many people have been raving about online. Their specialty is crispy buns stuffed with savoury or sweet fillings. About a 40-minute walk from the Crowne Plaza where I was staying – easily navigable by AMap – I ordered one beef (cost 15¥/$3.20cad) and one brown sugar (5¥/$1.05cad). The latter was decent but I probably wouldn’t repurchase because I much more thoroughly enjoyed the savoury option that was filled with succulent beef, pickled vegetables, and a tongue-numbing amount of Sichuan chilli oil that hit just right. It was absolutely delicious.
Beef bun from Yan Taipo Guokui, Chengdu, China (©Deborah Clague).
Exterior of Yan Taipo Guokui, Chengdu, China (©Deborah Clague).
Not only does China have amazing cuisine but it is unbelievably affordable. For most of the duration of my trip, I paid less than $5cad per meal. A large plate of snow beef fried rice was 17.9¥/$3.80cad. Zhong Dumplings, pork-filled and covered with Sichuan chilli oil and fresh garlic, one of the most delicious items I’ve ever eaten in my life, were only 20¥/$4.25cad. And classic dish Chongqing Noodles were so good, I ordered it multiple times at only 17.9¥/$3.80cad.
The food made this trip extra memorable and reason to return again one day.
Snow beef fried rice, Chengdu, China (©Deborah Clague).
Zhong Dumplings with rice balls, literally one of the best meals I’ve ever had in my life. Chengdu, China (©Deborah Clague).
Yak beef dumplings, Lhasa, Tibet (©Deborah Clague). Cost was 20¥/$4.25cad.
Chicken biriyani (my favourite food!) from Lhasa Kitchen, Lhasa, Tibet (©Deborah Clague). Cost was 20¥/$4.25cad.
Mini pan-fried pork dumplings, Chongqing, China (©Deborah Clague). Cost was 10¥/$2.13cad.
Chongqing noodles (©Deborah Clague). Cost was 17.9¥/$3.80cad.
Hear me out … purchased out of curiosity but these are actually delicious (©Deborah Clague).
Purchased solely because of Felix (©Deborah Clague).